Sony DualSense Controller Trigger-Baugruppe tauschen

Geschrieben von: Sam Omiotek

Kommentare: 78

Sony DualSense Controller Trigger-Baugruppe tauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Folge dieser Anleitung, um die Trigger-Baugruppen im DualSense Controller für die Sony PlayStation 5 zu ersetzen.

Die Baugruppen bestehen aus den Triggern und den adaptiven Widerstandsgebern.

Bitte beachten: Diese Anleitung ist nur für DualSense Controller mit einer FCC ID Endung mit 1. Prüfe die Rückseite deines Controllers, um deine Modellnummer zu verifizieren. Falls deine mit A endet, wird dein Controller innen ein bisschen anders aussehen.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

PlayStation DualSense Controller v1 Trigger Button Cover Set

Schritt 1

Ziehe das Ladekabel ab und schalte deinen Controller aus, bevor du beginnst.
Stecke ein Plektrum unter die untere rechte Ecke der Abdeckung, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie befestigt ist.

Schritt 2

Schiebe das Plektrum an der unteren rechten Kante entlang, um die Clips zu lösen, die die Abdeckung festhalten.

Schritt 3

Stecke ein Plektrum unter die untere linke Ecke der Abdeckung, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie befestigt ist.

Schritt 4

Schiebe das Plektrum an der unteren linken Kante entlang, um die Clips zu lösen, die die Abdeckung festhalten.

Schritt 5

Hebe die Abdeckung mit deinen Fingern an der unteren Kante an, um die restlichen Clips zu lösen.
Hebe die Abdeckung über die Joysticks, um sie zu entfernen.

Schritt 6

Fasse den Kontroller mit einer Hand und halte den linken Auslöser mit dem Daumen gedrückt.
Setze das flache Ende des Spudgers mit der anderen Hand zwischen die L1 und L2 Tasten ein.
Heble die L1 Taste mit dem Spudger behutsam vom Kontroller weg, halte dabei den Finger darüber, damit die Taste nicht davonspringen kann.

Tried prying from the front of the buttons as pictured and my spudger broke off in the gap. A video I watched showed them being pried off from the back (between the R1/R2 and L1/L2 buttons) which seemed much easier.

Lora Singleton -

Agree with Lora's comment above. I was able to use an old credit card to take L1/R1 out this way. I pressed down the L2/R2 button to create space to work in, then came in from between L1/L2 and R1/R2. It's easy to pop one of the outer corners first then you can work the credit card around the top and the rest falls out.

darkstar448 -

Man, if I'd just read the thumb part...

caldugen -

Schritt 7

Wiederhole den vorherigen Schritt für die R1 Taste.

to save a few bucks, the L1 and R1 buttons can be removed without the use of the spudger tool by using any thin prying tool and just pry the buttons from the bottom instead of the top

Alan Peng -

What I didn't see addressed anywhere (here or in other similar articles) is that replacement R1 / L1 buttons can be differ enough to be un-usable depending on which model your ps5 controller is. The ones I ordered don't fit and now I can't find a way to be sure I get the right ones because few know there's even a difference.

Walt Mather -

Did you already figured it out? The version the we need yo use?, We are in the same situation here.

Gerald Ross Rodriguez -

Lora Singleton -

Schritt 8

Entferne die beiden 6,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die unteren Enden des Gehäuseunterteils fixieren.

Schritt 9

Entferne die beiden 6,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben hinter den L1 und R1 Tasten.

Schritt 10

Löse die beiden Clips links und rechts von der Kopfhörerbuchse mit der Spitze des Spudgers.

Schritt 11

Schritt 12

Schritt 13

Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.
Bei manchen Modellen wird das Gehäuseunterteil von zwei weiteren Clips gehalten. Diese befinden sich links und rechts neben den zuvor ausgebauten Schultertasten. Wenn das Gehäuseunterteil nicht ohne Kraft entfernt werden kann, überprüfe, ob diese Clips vorhanden sind.

Step 14 is the same as step 8

Andy -

Schritt 14

Entferne die beiden 6,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die unteren Enden des Gehäuseunterteils fixieren.

Schritt 15

Entferne die beiden 6,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben hinter den L1 und R1 Tasten.

Same as step 9

Andy -

Schritt 16

Löse die beiden Clips links und rechts von der Kopfhörerbuchse mit der Spitze des Spudgers.

If these are similar in nature to the DS4’s clips, don’t use too much force so you don’t end up breaking them

Strings Cat -

there is a clip that holds the rear cover in place located in R1 and L1

Zargruzski nakamura -

Is there a clip in R1 and there's another in L1? Any way to see where exactly? The part of the back cover near L1 and R2 is that one that's not coming off. I can't seem to pull it off easily the way it looks in Step 11.

tofu -

For those wondering where the bumper clip is located, it's ~1cm inwards from the end of the back shell where the bumpers are. Take a spudger in that spot and lift it upwards carefully, it should disconnect the clips if they aren't already

Franz Rolfsvaag -

Schritt 17

Entferne das Gehäuseunterteil.
Bei manchen Modellen wird das Gehäuseunterteil von zwei weiteren Clips gehalten. Diese befinden sich links und rechts neben den zuvor ausgebauten Schultertasten. Wenn das Gehäuseunterteil nicht ohne Kraft entfernt werden kann, überprüfe, ob diese Clips vorhanden sind.

There are four more clips/hooks hidden in the seams along the outer sides of the handles. If you pull open the controller as shown in this step, then you will shear off the two tiny clips which are right next to the R1 and L1 buttons.

Therefore, you should first release those clips by prying the seams open sideways.

I noticed this with the updated design of the controller, not sure whether the hooks are present on the first version.

The hooks are not critical for the integrity of the controller as the two halves are held together by the screws hidden under the buttons. The damage does show that the controller has been taken apart.

Nick -

Thought I'd clarify: The clips next to the L1 and R1 are on the outer side from the L1 and R1 buttons, I'd suggest zooming in on the picture to see them. They're quite easy to break, but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards

Franz Rolfsvaag -

I am still strugling to find the clips. Could someone point them out in the image with a screen shot or something like that.

aGingerThing -

I keep getting stuck at this step too with the new DualSense CFI-ZCT1WA revision. The top and bottom shells seem like they are fused together next to L1/R1 but I can't seem to be able to find where these hidden clips are located. My controller is still in warranty so I don't want to break them in case I can't fix my issue.

but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards

I tried this but it seems that the you need a lot of force and I ended up bending the tip of my spudger. Are you sure it's not the top cover that you need to pry away? The bottom cover has a ridge to make sure it's under the top cover so it's not easy to bend outwards.

@samomio I think there needs to be a step added for these new clips.

robplease -

Ok, not seeing a lot of motion on this request, so I've uploaded photos of the hooks to imgur.

Here ya go: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5

Sean Murphy -

Life save Sean. Appreciate the image.

Vili -

This guide really needs an update on this. I had a really hard time getting the forward clips to release even after referring to the comments above. Pretty sure I broke them in the end. No big deal but would be great if the iFixit experts could work out a good method for releasing them.

Marcus Harvey -

I finally figure it out!!

The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.

Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5

What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.

To disassemble

1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.

2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, push your thumb on the upper shell and push outward as well (you can do this by applying pressure from the removed R1/L1 button hole towards the seam. And then it will disassemble automatically

And that's it!

Penn - 27/01/24

updated instruction:

I finally figure it out!!

The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.

Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5

What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.

To disassemble

1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.

2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, hold your thumb on the upper shell as anchor and then use your other finger to pry the bottom edge of the controller up away from the shell. If you are doing the first step, then don't worry about breaking the clip, just force it open. And then it will disassemble automatically

And that's it!

Penn -

Yes! Thanks a bunch Penn. That did the trick! Much appreciated

Sean -

I managed to do it just by pulling harder than what I was already doing. And I don't think I broke anything. So, for me at least, the technique described in this guide worked.

Riedweg Guillaume -

The video linked below clearly shows how to open the controllers with the extra clips near the L1/R1 areas.

See a video here by How To X on YouTube... https://youtu.be/djIvRoclr_E?si=dKFpQCZe...

Jason Z - 18/05/24

I really struggled with releasing the rest of the back panel (close to the shoulder buttons.) What finally seemed to do the trick for me, was doing both sides at once with upward turning motion of the back panel with the shoulder buttons approximately at the axis. Trying to release just one side and then the other felt impossible without potentially breaking the case.

dborba -

This was what did it for me

Matthew Williamson -

Schritt 18

Trenne das Akkukabel mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingern vom Motherboard.
Ziehe beim Abtrennen nicht an den Kabeln, sondern an den Steckern.

Tweezers aren't gonna grip that the way you need.

Leif DeWolf -

For those having trouble using tweezers to pull out the connector, you can grab below the lip of the connector and use the controller as a lever to pull it up as seen here DualSense Kontroller v2 Akku tauschen

This little trick helped me so much and I believe it should be shown on this guide as well.

Ezra Worthington -

Tweezers is too weak for this. I use my finger nails after removing the battery from the slot, straighten the cable lines and slowly wiggle it out.

Penn -

Schritt 19

Hebe den Akku gerade aus der Halterung.

Schritt 20

Ziehe das Kabel des unteren Mikrofons mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingern aus dem Anschluss auf dem Motherboard.

These ribbon cables have small tabs on either side you can use to help pull out the cable. You can slightly pull up, alternating between the two sides, to slowly wiggle the connector out.

Tran Anh Nguyen -

Might be a rookie mistake, but DO NOT REMOVE THE WHITE BRACKETS, only the ribbon! If you do, you’ll have an awful time putting it back and will most likely mess it up. Yes I did.

Joris D -

I tried to use metal tweezers to pull this out and absolutely shredded the ribbon in the process. It's just a microphone so I wouldn't expect it to matter but now none of the games get any input from the controller even though the controller works fine in the home menu 🥲

Probably just use your fingers if you have the dexterity for it.

Grey -

As others have said, try to only remove the ribbon and not the white connector. I'd advise holding down the white connector with something (perhaps your prying tool or finger) as you pull the ribbon out gently with the tweezers.

Best to avoid pulling out the white connector if possible - but its not the end of the world if you do accidentally pull it out, as I did. You can put the connector back in but you need to be very precise with the alignment over the 6 pins it connects to on the circuit board. I had to use a magnifying glass and it took me a few attempts.

Fruke -

I didn't read the comments until it was too late and I've ended broken all the pins trying to put it back. There should be some disclaimer in here because I've just lost the mic input trying to fix a joystick and there's no getting that back. And in the most stupid way.

Jordi -

Schritt 21

Entferne die 6,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die die Halterung für den Akku fixiert.

Schritt 22

Hebe die Akkuhalterung vom Motherboard.

Black and red wires fit neatly under the lower left and lower right arms of the battery bracket, to avoid potential damage when reconnecting the rear case.

Seomhnasaigh B -

This needs to be noted. Thanks!

Nick Gatti -

Good call on this one for sure. You DO NOT want to crush those cables with the battery bracket.

Jack Albertelli -

Schritt 23

Löse das Kabel der rechten Tasteneinheit, indem du es mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingern aus dem Anschluss auf dem Motherboard ziehst.
Entferne das Flachbandkabel noch nicht ganz.

If your cables are blue and in a different position, don't sweat. It's all good. Just do the same as they do and if you feel it is necessary, label with a sharpie left and right on each cable. A simple L and R works for this case

Qbert 2030 -

Schritt 24

Greife die Lasche des Kabels an der rechten Tasteneinheit mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingern und trenne es von der Tasteneinheit.
Entferne das Kabel.

Depending on the revision of your controller, these ribbon cables may be slim and white and if you remove it completely, you might have to remove and tear down the trigger assembly to get the ribbon cable back in.

Robert Borrero -

maybe I'm missing something but in this case it doesn't seem to me like these cables need to be outright removed.

TheHooligan95 -

Agreed… there is no need to remove from the trigger itself. Just the motherboard. This needs to be fixed.

Jack Albertelli -

Schritt 25

Löse das Kabel der linken Tasteneinheit, indem du es mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingern aus dem Anschluss auf dem Motherboard ziehst.
Entferne das Flachbandkabel noch nicht ganz.

Schritt 26

Greife die Lasche des Kabels an der linken Tasteneinheit mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingern und trenne es von der Tasteneinheit.
Entferne das Kabel.

Schritt 27

Ziehe das Kabel des oberen Mikrofons mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingern aus dem Anschluss auf dem Motherboard.

what is the white thing soldered to the motherboard called where the mic ribbon cable plugs and where can i find the part?

Abhi K - 03/01/23

@abhik13943 did you ever find this part?

DaMej2895 -

unfortunately, no. i'm just using my controller without a mic.

Abhi K -

Schritt 28

Ziehe das Kabel des Touchpads mit einer Pinzette oder deinen Fingern aus dem Anschluss auf dem Motherboard.

Schritt 29

Führe die Joysticks vorsichtig durch die Gehäusevorderseite und hebe das Motherboard heraus.
Entferne das Motherboard noch nicht vollständig. Vier angelötete Kabel verbinden das Motherboard mit den Vibrationsmotoren.

Pushing on the joysticks makes this much easier.

zidek22 -

My motherboard wouldn't just lift right out. So I noticed there's also a pair of barely visible small black clips, one on each side of the motherboard, holding it down. One is right beside the battery connector and the other's directly across on the opposite side of the motherboard right beside the ribbon cable connector.

Jason Mulholland -

Such a good observation!

zidek22 -

That helped a lot. If you can push those tabs it comes out a lot easier. I used my tweezers to push the left one and then as others had said pushing on the joysticks from the front of the controller makes it much easier.

Fruke -

Just push on the sticks. Pops out like a charm, zero effort.

Italian Retro Guy -

Try to leave the controller on its front when you pop out the board, otherwise the speaker can fall out like mine did.

James Hartman -

Schritt 30

Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die zwei 8.5 mm Schrauben zu entfernen, mit denen die Lichtführung befestigt ist.

Mine didn't have this piece

John -

Schritt 31

Benutze eine Pinzette oder deine Finger, um die Halterung der Lichtführung zu entfernen.

Schritt 32

Benutze eine Pinzette oder deine Finger, um die Lichtführung zu entfernen.

Where do i buy a new light guide?

Jasper Nuyts -

Schritt 33

Benutze eine Pinzette, um den Lautsprecher vom Mittelrahmen zu entfernen.
Achte darauf, dass du den Lautsprecher wieder richtig herum einbaust: Die Schaumstoffpads agehören auf die linke Seite und die goldenen Kontaktpins auf die rechten Seite.

Speaker may be attached to the motherboard via the foam pad.

Daniel Geppert - 24/05/21

Schritt 34

Benutze einen Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher, um die zwei 6,4 mm Schrauben zu lösen, mit denen der Mittelrahmen am vorderen Gehäuse befestigt ist.

Schritt 35

Hebe den Mittelrahmen und das Mainboard vorsichtig nach oben und aus dem vorderen Gehäuse heraus.
Achte darauf, dass die Kabel des Vibrationsmotors nicht zu stark angespannt werden.
Führe das Flachbandkabel des Touchpads beim Zusammenbau wieder durch seine rechteckige Öffnung im Mittelrahmen.

Feed the ribbon cable back through the rectangular slot in the midframe during reassembly.

Seomhnasaigh B -

Thank you for catching this!

Sam Omiotek -

Schritt 36

Klappe das Mainboard und den Mittelrahmen um.
Entferne die vier 6,4 mm Schrauben, mit denen die Trigger-Baugruppen am Mittelrahmen befestigt sind, mit einem Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher.
Wenn nur eine Trigger-Baugruppe ausgetauscht werden muss, entferne nur die Schrauben für diese.

My controller doesn’t have these screws. Any idea how to release the trigger assemblies from the midframe?

GreenPlaidJackets -

please update for new models they have clips around the assembly instead of screws

Patrick Coggins -

Schritt 37

Drehe den Mittelrahmen und die Hauptplatine vorsichtig um.
Die Trigger-Baugruppen sind lose und können herausfallen.
Entferne die Trigger-Baugruppen.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten dieser Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Entsorge deinen Elektromüll sachgerecht.

Lief die Reparatur nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungen oder frage in unserem Forum nach Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.

Tinte & Feder

Sam Omiotek

Mitglied seit: 25/02/19

87355 Reputation

20 Kommentare

So after I completed this my L1 stopped working how do I fix that? Lol the L2 R1 and R2 work fine

Chris Doyle -

i know this is pretty long after you posted but could you tell me where you found the spare part?

Christos -

Ali express has everything since after warranty sony won't even look at your machine. Even for profit. Usbc port on the controller has no strength and I've had 2 go and that was from gentle use when I only had one controller then the second one did it so I had to buy 2 at once.

Joey Strong -

How do I find these parts? I’ve looked online for ps5 trigger assemblies and I can’t find them.

Avonlea -

hello. did you find the trigger spare part assemblies? I am also looking for it but unfortunately couldn't find them yet.

Sezer Metin -

ps5 adaptive trigger replacement

kasynlife -

Also looking for the trigger assembly part, would assume since the author made a guide on how to replace they would know where to get the parts? Would appreciate a response from the author

Joshua Jewison -

hello. If you found the spare trigger asm. parts, can you also advice me? I am also searching but couldn't find them yet.

Sezer Metin - 30/08/22

***I dont know if u are still looking for the triggers. I fond this: https://www.nevs-controller.de/ps5/adapt...

Janis Kaiser -

Dear Sam Omiotek, I really appreciate your explanation, it's really usefull. If you also know where can we find spare parts, can you please let us know? Thanks in advance

Sezer Metin -

found this: https://www.nevs-controller.de/ps5/adapt...

Janis Kaiser -

My dog chewed up one of my PS5 controllers and the L2 trigger was jammed. With the help of this brilliant guide, and an electronics essentials kit, I disassembled the controller and filed down the chewed up sections. Now my controller is good as new and my girlfriend can continue playing Hogwarts Legacy. Thank you ifixit!

Snookeroo -

My controller is completely diffrent from these toutorials im seeing, i live in sweden is there a diference in the controller makings? Or has the latest gen of controllers changed since i this post was made

Zippiach -

Alright its a new gen controller and the FCC ends with a A, is there no new tutorial for the controllers and i havent found any screws on the triggers that lets me disassemble the trigger. I think im &&^&@@.

Zippiach -

What do you do if the R2 trigger is jammed? I noticed that I broke the assembly cable of my R2 trigger and ordered one soon. I took out my broken cable but it's still registering that I'm pressing it. Need help on this one, Thank you so much!

Es Pangatlo -

I never would have thought to remove the L1 and R1 to get to the screws. Thank you!

chazdevereaux -

I'm going to connect my logic analyzer to the usbc port so we can identify the pins that actually use data because there's no way it's using the full spec for data transfer for firmware. After certain updates your controller is a paperweight. I've repaired a few now and half of them have torn traces because like the hdmi port there isn't enough inherent mechanical strength like a traditional serial controller port. Funny how it's been the same 2 wire data protocol for 50 years yet the usb ports since they went from mini to micro breaks if you look at it. I install mini USB wherever I can.

Joey Strong -

I completed the replacement of the trigger assembly, but r2 does not register at all and r1 is constantly on. Tried with three different units and known good ribbon cables. Also tried in known good board and get the same issue. Any advice?

Mattrz Novak - 04/07/23

On the R2 button, check that the flexible cable has not been damaged. If it is, you will need a new flexible cable. Does the L2 button work? The solution might be that the flexible cable has not been properly inserted and is not sending input to the L2 and R2 buttons. As for the R1 button, check that the button has not been damaged; it's a possible explanation for why it remains pressed. Try cleaning the R1 button thoroughly, dirt and debris could be the cause trapping the button and preventing it from releasing. Let me know if you have resolved the issue.

Massimiliano Stefania -

I used this guide to replace a broken spring in the L2 trigger. It went pretty smoothly thanks to this info, and I actually had to do the whole thing twice. Once to first find the fault and put controller back, then a second time to install the spring again later. The spring replacement isn't explicitly covered, but I was able to wing it by looking at the remaining intact spring. The springs are hard to handle due to their small size and the degree of compression required for install.

Rohan Lowe -