iMac Intel 17" Display tauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan

Kommentare: 33

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

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Einleitung

Um an die meisten inneren Bauteile des iMacs heranzukommen, muss das Display ausgebaut werden.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

iMac G5 17" 1.9 GHz EMC 2104 and Intel 17" EMC 2114 Inverter

Schritt 1

Löse die beiden unverlierbaren Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit deinen die Zugangsklappe am iMac befestigt ist..
Entferne die Zugangsklappe zum iMac.
Bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst, ziehe den Netzstecker des iMac und drücke den Ein-/Aus-Schalter für 20-30 Sekunden, um die internen Kondensatoren zu entladen.

That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

annax -

Zitat von annax:

That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

annax, if you can suggest a simpler way we're all ears!

Jake Simmonds -

I found this guide to be very useful. The installation was super easy, especially since I've never opened my iMac before. I was able to skip steps 6, 7, 9, 10 and 14. Wish I had one of those long skinny magnetic torx screwdriver's though. I had to use duct tape to hold the screws on the end of the bit for step 12.

I used this opportunity to vacuum out the dust with mini attachments. Much needed after 3 years ;0)

Awesome site!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me time and $$$!

Eric Patten -

Yes I did it! thanks for this very good manual

Philippe d Anfray -

Schritt 2

Entferne die folgenden vier Schrauben:
Drei 6 mm T8 Torx.
Eine 8 mm T8 Torx.

T8's on the MA590LL 17" iMac.

Endareth -

8mm screw is 2nd from left - useful when reassembly

Stefano Speriani -

Schritt 3

Drehe den iMac um und lege ihn mit der Standseite nach unten auf eine ebene Fläche.
Um die vordere Blende vom iMac abzuheben, führe die folgenden Schritte gleichzeitig durch:
Verwende deinen Daumen, um die RAM-Arme einzudrücken und den iMac festzuhalten.
Benutze deinen Zeigefinger, um die kleine Brücke an der vorderen Blende zu dir hin zu ziehen.
Hebe die vordere Blende mit den Zeigefingern an.
Sobald die kleine Materialbrücke die RAM-Arme passiert hat, hebe die vordere Blende an ihrer unteren Kante gerade genug an, um die untere Kante des hinteren Gehäuses zu überwinden.

Schritt 4

Richte deinen iMac so aus, dass er aufrecht auf dem Fuss steht.
Führe eine Kunststoffkarte in die Ecke des Belüftungsschlitzes in der Nähe der Oberseite des hinteren Gehäuses ein.
Schiebe die Karte in Richtung Oberseite des iMacs, um die Verriegelung der Frontblende zu lösen.
Ziehe die Frontblende vom restlichen Gehäuse weg.
Wiederhole diesen Vorgang für die andere Seite der Frontblende.
Eventuell ist es nötig mehrere Schichten Klebeband auf der Oberseite der Plastikkarte aufzubringen, um das Lösen der Verriegelungen zu ermöglichen.
Sollte sich die Blende nicht lösen lassen, drücke die untere Kante wieder auf das hintere Gehäuse und wiederhole den Vorgang mit der Plastikkarte.

Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

Zaphod -

You can use a credit card. Mine survived, though it did get a little bent.

David Bendory -

I used two credit cards for extra thickness and the latches released very easily.

James French -

The magnetic latches are about 2-3 cm from the left and right edges right at the top edge of the case. I just ran a rare-earth magnet over the from of the bezel in this area. You can hear it click when it disengages. RadioShack has these kind of magnets for $3, the call them "super magnets".

James -

This was a nuisance. Had to really move the card around to get it to finally release.

Tim Dougherty - 21/07/15

Be very careful not to damage the metal clips with a credit card. My iMac was very stubborn and I ended up bending the clips in a way they cannot be bent back. The clips do still work and the front bezel does still go back on, however it no longer sits flush with the back of the iMac.

Gary Lefebvre - 26/03/17

The double credit card worked for me. Have to be persistent. It's a very light latch, no force needed or anything, or any click when it releases.

Julian Wood -

Schritt 5

Lege deinen iMac mit der Standfläche nach unten auf einen Tisch.
Hebe die Frontblende von der unteren Kante an und drehe die Blende vom Rest des iMac weg, wobei du auf die RAM-Hebel achten mußt, die sich verfangen könnten.
Lege die Frontblende über den Rest des iMac.

I found that it is much easier if you remove the top of the case first, then lay computer back on the stand & remove the bottom as directed.

G A Long - 11/05/14

Schritt 6

Wenn nötig, entferne das gelbe Kapton Klebeband (es ist ok es dann wegzuwerfen), welches um die Mikrofon- und Kamerakabel gewickelt ist.

I was able to skip Steps 6 & 7 entirely. The microphone and camera cables had enough slack to flip the front cover off and lie it flat above the rest of the computer.

Carly Hobeef -

Step 4 is completely unnessecary. Just lift the bezel up and wiggle it until the metal clips let go. Then lift the bezel straight up.

Cloudsurfer -

Schritt 7

Trenne die Kamera- und Mikrofon-Steckverbindungen.

Make sure the white wire is on the same side of both parts of the connector before reconnecting.

It is possible to reconnect the microphone cable in the wrong/reversed orientation with the connector. The microphone will still work but will be muted and result in a "tinny" sound on the receiver's end.

creecher -

Can anyone ID these connectors (at least the camera connector) so that I may make an extension (to move the camera out and re-house it myself). I probably have the gear to do the mic already.

Is the camera connector some standard I can order M & F versions online to terminate to an extension cable?

hutchwilco -

Schritt 8

Löse die untere EMI-Abschirmung von der Gehäuserückseite ab.
Du brauchst sie nur an drei Seiten abzulösen, lasse sie noch am Display befestigt.
Es geht besser, wenn du die EMI-Abschirmung mit Klebeband am Display befestigst, um sie aus dem Weg zu halten.

Schritt 9

Entferne die beiden 4,8 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, mit denen das Displaydatenkabel am Logic Board befestigt ist.
Fasse die schwarze Lasche am Stecker des Displaydatenkabels und ziehe ihn gerade nach oben aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

Schritt 10

Das Inverterkabel an 24" iMacs wird nach links abgezogen.
Ziehe den Stecker am Inverterkabel gerade nach oben aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

The inverter connector had a different location for me. It was situated next to the top left corner of the right speaker, just under the display. I didn't figure this out until I actually lifted the display off the computer.

Cloudsurfer -

My 17" iMac also has the inverter cable. It located in the upper right just below the display.

Clinton -

I couldnt get this cable off, so I skipped this step. If you have this problem, just proceed; when you get to step 13, lift the display carefully as this cable will still be attached. You'll now easily be able to grip the connector and remove it.

David Bendory -

Schritt 11

Ziehe die EMI-Abschirmung aus Aluminium von den beiden senkrechten Displaykanten ab.
Beim Zusammenbau geht es besser, wenn du kleine Stückchen Klebeband auf den linken und rechten Klebeflächen der EMI-Abschirmung anbringst, bevor du das Display in die Gehäuserückseite des iMacs absenkst.

Only peel back the black EMI tape that overlaps the edge of the display, not the silver tape on the display itself.

Odesseus -

The above note sounds as if one should peel the aluminum-foil colored tape back from the frame. Do NOT do this; instead, peel the BLACK-colored aluminum tape back from the display frame to reveal the crevice between the display and the case and the mounting screws you are about to remove.

Valdaquende -

I didn't actually need to peel anything at all. The screws would have been visible had I looked more carefully.

David Bendory -

Schritt 12

Lasse die EMI-Abschirmung vom Display herunterhängen.
Entferne die vier 8 mm Torx T10 Grobgewindeschrauben mit 2 mm breiten Kopf, mit denen das Display an der Gehäuserückseite befestigt ist.
Diese Schrauben sitzen vertieft, ein dünner Schraubendreher, so wie dieser hier, ist zum Entfernen unverzichtbar. Bits sind dafür zu kurz.
Wir empfehlen sehr, einen magnetischen Schraubendreher zu verwenden, damit die Schrauben nicht in den iMac hineinfallen können.

To put the T10 screws back, you'll need a magnetic head T10 screwdriver or a long, tweezer-like device found in a good set of computer tools. The screws are WAY down there and it is difficult if not impossible without the right tools.

Monkee -

If your thin torx driver is not magnetized, you can hold another, magnetized, driver against it as a temporary solution.

Si B -

If you really want to tackle it without proper tools: with a non-magnetised thin torx loosen the screw till its ready to come out, then wrap a little bit of duct tape (sticky side out) around the head of a spare thin screwdriver, gently push the duct taped screwdriver on top of the loosened screw. The magic tape will lift the screws out.

When re-assembling, it's also a good way to fish out the screws that missed the holes completely when your expert fingers skills are classed as clumsy.

Mark -

You must have a magnetized Torx 10, 2 to 3 inches in length to safely get these screws out. Fortunately if you have the T10 you can magnetize it with your iMac.

Inside the front bezel are two magnets that hold your apple remote to the case, simply tap the T10 to the larger magnet 3 or 4 times and test it's strength in holding a weighty screw. You are good to go. I did this and the scary lose a screw into the iMac was diminished with a firm hold in both removal and install.

rwpete63 -

If you don't have a magnetic screwdriver or they are aluminum screws, you can use this old mechanics tip: Use a small piece of paper or celophane tape on the head of the screw, then press the screwdriver into it, this creates a nice snug hold so you can reinstall the screws.

Greg Olson -

I was able to slightly bend the plastic case to get my driver to seat. This was the most challenging part of the teardown and reassembly because I did not have the proper tool.

Tim Dougherty - 21/07/15

Schritt 13

Hebe das Display an der Unterkante an und ziehe es zu dir hin, so dass sich die EMI-Abschirmung von der Oberkante löst.
Achte darauf, dass sich beim Ausbau keine Kabel verfangen.

Steps 14 & 15; If you remove the top screw, and just loosen the bottom screw you can rotate the optical drive clip out of the way, tighten it, then screw the top screw back in to hold the logic board down for later trying to remove the connector. You also save three more parts kicking around on the desktop.

dentoni -

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

702835 Reputation

2 Kommentare

Please be careful at step 5. This is because the wiring attached to the microphone is very delicate and might snap when you are wiggling the bezel free from the rest of the computer. I did this and spent a lot of time soldering back the thin microphone wires. Pull the bezel away carefully, taking care not to snap any of the wires.

ERIC -

This is really a good tutorial! just put in a new display, and it works perfectly.

So proud and happy now :-)

Thanks !!!

marjolein -