iMac Intel 17" Festplatte tauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan
  • Kommentare: 64
iMac Intel 17" Festplatte tauschen

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Mittel

Schritte

20

Zeitaufwand

1 - 2 Stunden

Einleitung

Upgrade deine Festplatte, um mehr Speicherplatz zu bekommen.

  1. hxZiNdMfTd5UBC5X
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    • Löse die beiden unverlierbaren Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit deinen die Zugangsklappe am iMac befestigt ist..

    • Entferne die Zugangsklappe zum iMac.

    • Bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst, ziehe den Netzstecker des iMac und drücke den Ein-/Aus-Schalter für 20-30 Sekunden, um die internen Kondensatoren zu entladen.

    That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

    annax -

    Zitat von annax:

    That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

    annax, if you can suggest a simpler way we're all ears!

    Jake Simmonds -

    I found this guide to be very useful. The installation was super easy, especially since I've never opened my iMac before. I was able to skip steps 6, 7, 9, 10 and 14. Wish I had one of those long skinny magnetic torx screwdriver's though. I had to use duct tape to hold the screws on the end of the bit for step 12.

    I used this opportunity to vacuum out the dust with mini attachments. Much needed after 3 years ;0)

    Awesome site!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me time and $$$!

    Eric Patten -

    Yes I did it! thanks for this very good manual

    Philippe d Anfray -

  2. l6WpNmqtB6tTifMa

    • Entferne die folgenden vier Schrauben:

    • Drei 6 mm T8 Torx.

    • Eine 8 mm T8 Torx.

    T8's on the MA590LL 17" iMac.

    Endareth -

    8mm screw is 2nd from left - useful when reassembly

    Stefano Speriani -

  3. GCiFY4DTc13hL43o
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    • Drehe den iMac um und lege ihn mit der Standseite nach unten auf eine ebene Fläche.

    • Um die vordere Blende vom iMac abzuheben, führe die folgenden Schritte gleichzeitig durch:

    • Verwende deinen Daumen, um die RAM-Arme einzudrücken und den iMac festzuhalten.

    • Benutze deinen Zeigefinger, um die kleine Brücke an der vorderen Blende zu dir hin zu ziehen.

    • Hebe die vordere Blende mit den Zeigefingern an.

    • Sobald die kleine Materialbrücke die RAM-Arme passiert hat, hebe die vordere Blende an ihrer unteren Kante gerade genug an, um die untere Kante des hinteren Gehäuses zu überwinden.

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    • Richte deinen iMac so aus, dass er aufrecht auf dem Fuss steht.

    • Führe eine Kunststoffkarte in die Ecke des Belüftungsschlitzes in der Nähe der Oberseite des hinteren Gehäuses ein.

    • Schiebe die Karte in Richtung Oberseite des iMacs, um die Verriegelung der Frontblende zu lösen.

    • Ziehe die Frontblende vom restlichen Gehäuse weg.

    • Wiederhole diesen Vorgang für die andere Seite der Frontblende.

    • Eventuell ist es nötig mehrere Schichten Klebeband auf der Oberseite der Plastikkarte aufzubringen, um das Lösen der Verriegelungen zu ermöglichen.

    • Sollte sich die Blende nicht lösen lassen, drücke die untere Kante wieder auf das hintere Gehäuse und wiederhole den Vorgang mit der Plastikkarte.

    Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

    Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

    Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

    Zaphod -

    You can use a credit card. Mine survived, though it did get a little bent.

    David Bendory -

    I used two credit cards for extra thickness and the latches released very easily.

    James French -

    The magnetic latches are about 2-3 cm from the left and right edges right at the top edge of the case. I just ran a rare-earth magnet over the from of the bezel in this area. You can hear it click when it disengages. RadioShack has these kind of magnets for $3, the call them "super magnets".

    James -

    This was a nuisance. Had to really move the card around to get it to finally release.

    Tim Dougherty -

    Be very careful not to damage the metal clips with a credit card. My iMac was very stubborn and I ended up bending the clips in a way they cannot be bent back. The clips do still work and the front bezel does still go back on, however it no longer sits flush with the back of the iMac.

    Gary Lefebvre -

    The double credit card worked for me. Have to be persistent. It's a very light latch, no force needed or anything, or any click when it releases.

    Julian Wood -

  5. 6BjhpBMMJXMguR2M

    • Lege deinen iMac mit der Standfläche nach unten auf einen Tisch.

    • Hebe die Frontblende von der unteren Kante an und drehe die Blende vom Rest des iMac weg, wobei du auf die RAM-Hebel achten mußt, die sich verfangen könnten.

    • Lege die Frontblende über den Rest des iMac.

    I found that it is much easier if you remove the top of the case first, then lay computer back on the stand & remove the bottom as directed.

    G A Long -

  6. JeU6BpqAYHH52fbg

    • Wenn nötig, entferne das gelbe Kapton Klebeband (es ist ok es dann wegzuwerfen), welches um die Mikrofon- und Kamerakabel gewickelt ist.

    I was able to skip Steps 6 & 7 entirely. The microphone and camera cables had enough slack to flip the front cover off and lie it flat above the rest of the computer.

    Carly Hobeef -

    Step 4 is completely unnessecary. Just lift the bezel up and wiggle it until the metal clips let go. Then lift the bezel straight up.

    Cloudsurfer -

  7. 5CYDVbqHBIKBqYPO
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    • Trenne die Kamera- und Mikrofon-Steckverbindungen.

    Make sure the white wire is on the same side of both parts of the connector before reconnecting.

    It is possible to reconnect the microphone cable in the wrong/reversed orientation with the connector. The microphone will still work but will be muted and result in a "tinny" sound on the receiver's end.

    creecher -

    Can anyone ID these connectors (at least the camera connector) so that I may make an extension (to move the camera out and re-house it myself). I probably have the gear to do the mic already.

    Is the camera connector some standard I can order M & F versions online to terminate to an extension cable?

    hutchwilco -

  8. 3doWRKFBHIAsUk2V

    • Löse die untere EMI-Abschirmung von der Gehäuserückseite ab.

    • Du brauchst sie nur an drei Seiten abzulösen, lasse sie noch am Display befestigt.

    • Es geht besser, wenn du die EMI-Abschirmung mit Klebeband am Display befestigst, um sie aus dem Weg zu halten.

  9. GCqCZsDpmhBagfDJ
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    • Entferne die beiden 4,8 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, mit denen das Displaydatenkabel am Logic Board befestigt ist.

    • Fasse die schwarze Lasche am Stecker des Displaydatenkabels und ziehe ihn gerade nach oben aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

  10. fRojFAJYaFUtunLV

    • Das Inverterkabel an 24" iMacs wird nach links abgezogen.

    • Ziehe den Stecker am Inverterkabel gerade nach oben aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    The inverter connector had a different location for me. It was situated next to the top left corner of the right speaker, just under the display. I didn't figure this out until I actually lifted the display off the computer.

    Cloudsurfer -

    My 17" iMac also has the inverter cable. It located in the upper right just below the display.

    Clinton -

    I couldnt get this cable off, so I skipped this step. If you have this problem, just proceed; when you get to step 13, lift the display carefully as this cable will still be attached. You'll now easily be able to grip the connector and remove it.

    David Bendory -

  11. CSJ1tHoIsYEFb1iZ

    • Ziehe die EMI-Abschirmung aus Aluminium von den beiden senkrechten Displaykanten ab.

    • Beim Zusammenbau geht es besser, wenn du kleine Stückchen Klebeband auf den linken und rechten Klebeflächen der EMI-Abschirmung anbringst, bevor du das Display in die Gehäuserückseite des iMacs absenkst.

    Only peel back the black EMI tape that overlaps the edge of the display, not the silver tape on the display itself.

    Odesseus -

    The above note sounds as if one should peel the aluminum-foil colored tape back from the frame. Do NOT do this; instead, peel the BLACK-colored aluminum tape back from the display frame to reveal the crevice between the display and the case and the mounting screws you are about to remove.

    Valdaquende -

    I didn't actually need to peel anything at all. The screws would have been visible had I looked more carefully.

    David Bendory -

  12. hsZWYSSqY3uh4EQm
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    • Lasse die EMI-Abschirmung vom Display herunterhängen.

    • Entferne die vier 8 mm Torx T10 Grobgewindeschrauben mit 2 mm breiten Kopf, mit denen das Display an der Gehäuserückseite befestigt ist.

    • Diese Schrauben sitzen vertieft, ein dünner Schraubendreher, so wie dieser hier, ist zum Entfernen unverzichtbar. Bits sind dafür zu kurz.

    • Wir empfehlen sehr, einen magnetischen Schraubendreher zu verwenden, damit die Schrauben nicht in den iMac hineinfallen können.

    To put the T10 screws back, you'll need a magnetic head T10 screwdriver or a long, tweezer-like device found in a good set of computer tools. The screws are WAY down there and it is difficult if not impossible without the right tools.

    Monkee -

    If your thin torx driver is not magnetized, you can hold another, magnetized, driver against it as a temporary solution.

    Si B -

    If you really want to tackle it without proper tools: with a non-magnetised thin torx loosen the screw till its ready to come out, then wrap a little bit of duct tape (sticky side out) around the head of a spare thin screwdriver, gently push the duct taped screwdriver on top of the loosened screw. The magic tape will lift the screws out.

    When re-assembling, it's also a good way to fish out the screws that missed the holes completely when your expert fingers skills are classed as clumsy.

    Mark -

    You must have a magnetized Torx 10, 2 to 3 inches in length to safely get these screws out. Fortunately if you have the T10 you can magnetize it with your iMac.

    Inside the front bezel are two magnets that hold your apple remote to the case, simply tap the T10 to the larger magnet 3 or 4 times and test it's strength in holding a weighty screw. You are good to go. I did this and the scary lose a screw into the iMac was diminished with a firm hold in both removal and install.

    rwpete63 -

    If you don't have a magnetic screwdriver or they are aluminum screws, you can use this old mechanics tip: Use a small piece of paper or celophane tape on the head of the screw, then press the screwdriver into it, this creates a nice snug hold so you can reinstall the screws.

    Greg Olson -

    I was able to slightly bend the plastic case to get my driver to seat. This was the most challenging part of the teardown and reassembly because I did not have the proper tool.

    Tim Dougherty -

  13. A1JGpUqMRA2Onn1W

    • Hebe das Display an der Unterkante an und ziehe es zu dir hin, so dass sich die EMI-Abschirmung von der Oberkante löst.

    • Achte darauf, dass sich beim Ausbau keine Kabel verfangen.

    Steps 14 & 15; If you remove the top screw, and just loosen the bottom screw you can rotate the optical drive clip out of the way, tighten it, then screw the top screw back in to hold the logic board down for later trying to remove the connector. You also save three more parts kicking around on the desktop.

    dentoni -

  14. VxOwpyxUrEorvQOL

    • Löse die verschiedenen Stromversorgungskabel hinter der Festplatte.

    Didn’t seem any reason for the fiddly de-routing of the cables so I just left them which caused no problems.

    nijafe -

  15. UnvWIAWmwrph3vQU
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    • In manchen Modellen kann ein Wärmesensor auf der Festplatte liegen. Sollte deine Hauptplatine keine Sensorbefestigung haben, wie auf dem roten Kästchen auf der ersten Seite dargestellt, kannst du diesen Schritt überspringen.

    • Ziehe den Stecker des Wärmesensors der Festplatte aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine.

    • Ziehe an diesen Stecker parallel zur Oberfläche der Hauptplatine in Richtung der oberen Ecke des iMac.

    • Benutze einen Spudger, um den Wärmesensor mit dem Klebstoff von der Festplatte abzuhebeln und bringe ihn wieder auf der selben Stelle der Austauschfestplatte an.

    There was a thermal sensor attached to the HD. You can peel it off and glue it on the new HD and attach the connector back again.

    map -

    I think there is no need to mess whit the connector. just peel it off and glue it on. the connector is very week.

    thanks for ever ifixit!

    sebalancea -

    My thermal sensor was magnetised. I just pulled it off my old HD and put it on my new one. It sticks perfectly to the metal casing.

    Cloudsurfer -

    There was a thermal sensor attached to my previous HD but not to the new one. But without this sensor, the iMac was down :-( (logic board ?)

    I was forced to re-install the old HD with the temp sensor on.

    Except this point, related to my iMac, thanks ifixit for this great manual

    Jerome -

    I found it easier to take the sensor off the Hard Drive, not the logic board. The stickiness holding it place on the old drive was sticky enough to hold it in place on the new drive.

    Leif -

    Just in case anyone wants to know why this is an issue. 😊

    The sensor on the hard drive is there to send a signal to the logic board so it knows the hard drive isn’t running too hot.

    Apple moved this sensor into the hard drive on some later models of the iMac. Removing these drives and replacing them with a standard non-Apple certified drive causes the logic board to not get a temperature sensor reading which in turn causes the panicked logic board to ramp up the Fan to the highest possible speed.

    The iMac normally boots but with the fan on max. speed makes a lot of noise. There are external sensors available for this case so you can add whatever hard drive you like.

    Ricardo Santos -

  16. 2dVFIrEmGGnSNU6b

    • Drücke die Festplattenhalterung nach unten, um sie von dem hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen. Drehe dann die Oberseite der Festplatte zu dir hin.

    • Der Druck auf die Oberseite der Festplattenhalterung nach unten, den es benötigt, um die Halterung vom hinteren Gehäuse zu entfernen, muss ausreichend stark sein. Wir empfehlen deshalb, dass du deinen iMac auf einen Tisch legst, damit du ihn nicht versehentlich umwirfst.

    • Solltest du Probleme beim Lösen der Festplattenhalterung haben, kann die Halterung von der Festplatte entfernt werden, indem du die zwei T8 oder T10 Schrauben, mit denen die Halterung an der Festplatte befestigt ist, löst.

    I was applying a considerable amount of force and was not getting anywhere and I was afraid it was going to suddenly release and the resulting jerk would break something else. I noticed that all I was trying to do is get a plastic tap to go past a metal plate. There was plenty of room with no other components around so I stuck a medium screw driver behind the plastic latch and applied a small amount of pressure and it unlatched very nicely. I pried on one side and then the other to release it on both sides. For me this method worked a lot better.

    flyingmonkey1 -

    When I was trying to remove this bracket, it broke right off!! do you think i could super glue it back together, or order a new one? or does it even need one?

    danielle -

    The drive bracket wasn't moving until i placed my fingers exactly as shown in the picture and firmly applied force. Then it moved easily.

    Clinton -

    I also struggled trying to get the bracket loose by pressing down. I finally took FlyingMonkey's suggestion about the screwdriver and it came right off.

    Rachael Whitaker -

    I too was afraid I would break the bracket. I removed the screws that held the bracket to the hard drive. This allowed the hard drive and bracket to come right out.

    Roscoville -

    Never managed to get it off. But Lucky to have a screwdriver with a pull out flexible end which made unscrewing the T8 screws on the bracket the easiest option.

    Then lift drive up at bracket side, leaving bracket in place.

    nijafe -

  17. RH6fCALZWrjeJLHo
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    • Hebe die Festplatte aus den unteren Pins und ziehe sie aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraus. Achte auf die Netzkabel, die sich verfangen könnten.

    • Wenn du deine Festplatte wieder neu installierst, solltest du darauf achten, dass du die beiden Gummiüberzüge nicht aus ihren Haltelöchern im Gehäuse herausdrückst. Um sie wieder herauszuholen, müsstest du die Hauptplatine entfernen.

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    • Setze einen Spudger zwischen die SATA Stecker und drehe ihn, um den Stecker von der Festplatte zu trennen.

    • Trenne beide SATA Stecker ab.

    I really didn't need a spudger to pull the cables off.

    Cloudsurfer -

  19. oGGVUlJsETrT6EZj

    • Entferne die zwei T8 Torx Schrauben, welche die Festplattenhalterung an der Festplatte befestigen.

    • Hebe die Halterung von der Festplatte ab und befestige sie an deiner neuen Festplatte.

  20. ljeIIJ5lGLd6I1JK

    • Entferne die zwei T8 Torx Festplattenpins auf der anderen Seite der Festplatte.

    • Die Pins sind auf der Konnektorseite der Festplatte befestigt.

    • Solle ein Wärmesensor auf deiner Festplatte sein, kannst du das flache Ende eines Spudgers verwenden, um ihn abzuhebeln und ihn auf deine neue Festplatte zu übertragen.

    • Wenn du eine neue Festplatte installierst, gibt es hier eine OS X Installationsanleitung, damit du direkt loslegen kannst.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, befolge diese Anweisungen in der umgekehrten Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

702835 Reputation

19 Kommentare

It was a fun way to spend a sunday! We didn't have a magnetic screwdriver so we used a glue stick and dipped our screwdriver in the "goop" and used it to secure the screws to the driver for the deep screw section. Fun stuff!

Jeff Walker -

Thanks to this guide and a RAM upgrade my imac has at least a couple more years left on it. I did not disconnect the front bezel or LCD I just laid them aside (the LCD had to be propped up a little to prevent pulling). The scariest part was removing the HD heat sensor. I just went really slow and most of the glue was still attached to the sensor so that all I had to do was press it against the new HD and it affixed just fine. One week later and everything is working great! Magnetizing the Torx driver with the remote magnet is a great idea. I purchased a stand alone magnetizer/demagnetizer myself though.

Dave Rabiger -

Very handy guide. I just replaced the internal drive on my iMac and it's working well. Here also is a pretty good video of the procedure:

Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShY8zuT-w...

Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RjsIU1XEk...

Mark -

Thanks to this very good description. Now these Mac has 10x more HD-Size than before! (1.5 TB). I wrote this from the IMAc so that you see: it works fine!

Thank you!

Dirk

Dirk Redemann -

Anyone else have really loud fans running all the time after upgrading hard drive?

I put in a 320 GB Seagate 7200, and I now have to turn Pandora up quite a bit to drown out the fan noise.

Suggestions? Workarounds?

Andrew -

Hi Andrew. I generally prefer to work at software rather than the hardware rather. If I am working at the hardware level, I just don’t tell my wife haa haa lol!! :)

Buuuuut. As far as tips. If you are willing to open that computer up. It may be worth checking to see if the CPU or any of the vents are getting dust build up in them.

The next general point to bear in mind. It does seem like 7200 RPM HDDs are noisier than their 5200 RPM counterparts. For some reason, it seem more noise equals more speed. If you are puzzled and want to know more detailed info than OS X provides. Maybe try looking into an option for downloading software like TechTool Pro. It can warn of general problems with battery, CPU etc. So in summary. Depending on your personal budget. Consider an SSD. The program from Micromat. Or maybe it is just a problem that needs to be endured. Sorry if it is the last one mate!

Hope one of those pointers help.

Regards

Bryce

Bryce Jensen -

I just successfully replaced my dead hard drive with a WD Caviar Green drive in ~4 hours (minus a trip to Ace for a narrower T10 driver), despite being terrified. As a novice, this was difficult, especially removing the front bezel. That took me 30 minutes of trials. I had to use a lot of force in removing that and the hard drive. A couple of times my computer differed from the guide (I have a 2 GHz intel core 2 duo white imac). For instance, my hard drive temperature sensor looked completely different and wasn't labeled, and some other connections were in completely different places than in the demo, so I had to hunt around. I also think I messed up the hard drive thermal sensor when I put it on the new drive because my fan was running at high speed after this, like Andrew describes above. I downloaded hddfancontrol and that instantly fixed it. It took 10 seconds to install and then the fan noise stopped. Regardless, the guide was great-I had no business even trying this but it worked!

Sarah -

Now I can't put the hard drive back in :-((

wwwkyngallimore -

Excellent guide which gave me the confidence to give it a try - unlike the YouTube videos which range from comical to plain scary. I didn't have a thin enough T10 screwdriver but managed OK using one with a flat blade which I magnetised first. Only problem came when I tried to install Snow Leopard. When I tried to format my new 1Tb drive Disk Utility said the drive was 7.3 Tb and refused to format the disk, citing input/output errors. I assumed that I had screwed up somewhere and went through the whole process again, only to get the same result. I decided to install the OS to an external drive as a temporary measure and found that the disk was then correctly recognised. After that, everything was plain sailing. If you aren't too sure, give it a try and save some money. Just be painstaking and patient. I'm a Silver Surfer so with no IT skills to speak of. If I can do it, so can you. Many thanks.

Tonyh -

Everything went as planned. But now when I try to reinstall OSX I don't see the hard drive as a install destination. Searching the web now for ideas.

Mark -

I was unable to get the HD bracket to release so I carefully unscrewed it and slid it off to the side until it let go. A bit clumsy but hey! It worked!

Fubar -

I just replaced the HDD in my 7 1/2 year old iMac. Took about 3 hours total from dead WD Caviar 160GB to Seagate Barracuda 1TB including the full restore from Time Capsule (also a Seagate). Went really well, considering I've never changed a drive in a Mac. Have done so on Win PC's that had a lot more room inside of them. Following the instructions here wasn't terribly difficult, though some things were a bit different than the photos showed. Was also surprised that the display was made by LG/Philips, but not surprised by all of the Foxconn parts inside! Overall not difficult, but did have one minor problem that I discovered a day later - it wouldn't past POST, and found out that one of the two memory cards was slightly out of place upon reassembly. Easy fix, and not having any issues with high speed fan running, at least as of yet. Also found a free app that acts very similar to HDD Fan Control.

Garry Billick -

Did this job in about 3 hours. The hardest part was getting all that tape loose. Great guide!

R A Stothart -

Great guide. Helped me started in the first step of reviving a quiet machine. Cheers!

Lukas Watts -

Perfect tutorial. Nicely described steps to follow. I did it everithing for less two hours.

jarryjar@icloud.com -

XLNT instructions; replaced hard drive and upgraded RAM; no problems. I'm restoring my backup to the new drive, and my 17" iMac will be ready to use in about an hour... THANKS!!!

gsawyn -

thanks but my cd can’t eject in the room please help me my email is bicledoja@gmail.com

bimenyimana clement -

Worked great! Replaced an old 500GB HDD with 1TB SSD/HDD Hybrid in my parents’ iMac Late 2006. It’s working faster now and no longer rainbow wheels when I try to open 2 applications at once. Longest part of this process was backing up the data/reinstalling the OS. I recommend Carbon Copy Cloner. And as others have mentioned, step 12 was difficult because I did not have a skinny magnetized screwdriver and had to do some hacky workaround. Following this guide took me about 1.5hrs.

Cassie Brown -

I used this to remove a drive I wanted to get my old data from so I did not have to to the reassemble but this was still very helpful. Thanks!

Pete Ziegel -