iPod Touch 2. Generation Akku tauschen

Geschrieben von: Walter Galan

Kommentare: 67

Schwierigkeitsgrad

Sehr schwierig

Schritte

Zeitaufwand

1 - 4 Stunden

Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt, wie ein defekter Akku im iPod Touch der 2. Generation ausgetauscht wird. Du brauchst dazu Lötkenntnisse.

Werkzeuge

Ersatzteile

iPod touch (2nd Gen) Battery

Schritt 1

Das Glas-Front Panel des iPod Touch der zweiten Generation besitzt einen Kunststoffrahmen, der sowohl an der Außenkante als auch unter den breiten schwarzen Streifen oben und unten am Gerät verklebt ist. Der Rahmen hat auch einen Gummistreifen, der den Rand der Glas-Panels umschließt.
Das Bild links (Front Panel bereits entfernt) zeigt die Positionen der Metallklammern (rot dargestellt), die in den Kunststoffrahmen einrasten. Versuche in den nächsten Schritten, das Front Panel an den Zwischenräumen zwischen diesen Klammern anzuhebeln.
Achte außerdem auf das sehr dünne und empfindliche Touchscreen-Flachbandkabel (die Position des Steckverbinders ist orange markiert), das das Front Panel mit der oberen linken Ecke des iPod Touch verbindet.

A quick note that worked great for me. Print out the picture that has the locations of the metal connector clips and scale it to actual size. Then place the iTouch on top of the printed picture and it will show you exactly where to insert the opening tool. Use it as a template.

sean -

Did anyone see a rubber seal? It's just a plastic frame that's slightly rubbery. It's not made of two parts as far as I can tell.

no way - 15/02/15

Schritt 2

Führe vorsichtig ein Kunststoff-Öffnungswerkzeug in der Nähe der Lautstärketasten zwischen die Kunststoffeinfassung des Displays und das Metallgehäuse ein.
Heble das Glas-Panel an, indem du das Werkzeug vom iPod Touch wegdrehst.
Das Entscheidende ist, langsam und vorsichtig zu arbeiten, um innere Bauteile nicht zu beschädigen.
Falls du Schwierigkeiten bei der Verwendung des Kunststoff-Öffnungswerkzeugs hast, kannst du es auch mit einer Rasierklinge versuchen. Damit ließen sich die Klammern unserer Erfahrung nach leichter lösen. Bitte sei bei dieser Methode äußerst vorsichtig!

If you are planning on reusing the front bezel / seal around the glass screen, be careful not to rip it up too much when loosening the screen.

iTronics Repair -

If you bought a new front panel there is a rubber seal around it so dont worry about ripping it up to open your iPod

mikeseptak -

Zitat von mikeseptak:

If you bought a new front panel there is a rubber seal around it so dont worry about ripping it up to open your iPod

sometimes if you buy a new front it doesn't come with the front bezel, so make sure it does before you rip the old one up. otherwise you can get a new front bezel from ebay.

iTronics Repair -

"Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround near the headphone jack."

My guess is near the "Volume Control" not the "headphone jack" since the Headphone is oriented at the bottom of the picture not where the tool is being shown.

barlowdo -

Cracked the glass dropping on tile floor. I used a metal guitar pick to remove the glass/digitizer/bezel/"o" ring assembly, noting the clips in the first picture, I worked my way around and between the clips - starting at the volume control - first to loosen the glass/digitizer, then to go deeper and vertically lift the bezel and free the bezel from the clips. As others say - if you purchase from this site DO NOT worry about the bezel OR the "o" ring around the bezel - just get the entire thang out and the new one slips/snaps into place with ease - entire process took about 10min for removal and 3 for replacement - and I HAVE A NEW WORKING iPod TOUCH!! Jerry -Houston, TX - 281-687-2755 for questions...

jgreengold -

And the service and shipping are excellent - and now I'm gonna buy a new MacBook keyboard from this company and fix my daughters stuck "z" key - I love IFIXIT - would recommend to ALL - products and instructions are EXCELLENT - yes ebay *may* be cheaper but you get what you pay for... HIGHLY RECOMMEND IFIXIT...

jgreengold -

Zitat von jgreengold:

Cracked the glass dropping on tile floor. I used a metal guitar pick to remove the glass/digitizer/bezel/"o" ring assembly, noting the clips in the first picture, I worked my way around and between the clips - starting at the volume control - first to loosen the glass/digitizer, then to go deeper and vertically lift the bezel and free the bezel from the clips. As others say - if you purchase from this site DO NOT worry about the bezel OR the "o" ring around the bezel - just get the entire thang out and the new one slips/snaps into place with ease - entire process took about 10min for removal and 3 for replacement - and I HAVE A NEW WORKING iPod TOUCH!! Jerry -Houston, TX - 281-687-2755 for questions...

I am not familiar with a Metal Guitar pick, The plastic ones break very easily. (Even my Fender one) Did your metal pick damage the metal frame of your iPod? Were you able to remove the touch screen, o-ring, and plastic bezel without further damage to the parts?

When I attempted to use a metal screwdriver I damaged the LCD.

barlowdo -

Zitat von barlowdo:

I am not familiar with a Metal Guitar pick, The plastic ones break very easily. (Even my Fender one) Did your metal pick damage the metal frame of your iPod? Were you able to remove the touch screen, o-ring, and plastic bezel without further damage to the parts? When I attempted to use a metal screwdriver I damaged the LCD.

jgreengold -

Not too hard to find - either at music store a sometimes as a jewelry

"charm"... Mine is the latter - very thin, very stiff. It did not damage

the frame of the iPod at all. However - after replacing the new part I noted

a plastic protector sheet on the *underside* of the new screen - upon

removing the new top glass panel using the same guitar pick a second time, I

too damaged the LCD - I also damaged the bezel and O ring. The O ring is

very difficult to get off in a reusable condition. The bezel can come off

clean with patience - which I apparently have little of and hence purchased

a second glass top assembly to go along with the new LCD. I think the key

here is patience and very slow going - I also purchased an iPod opening tool

as another key learning is that while the guitar pick does work - it tends

to get inserted too deep damaging the bezel (separating it from the glass or

breaking it) or damaging internal parts. But the opening tool can sometimes

be not firm enough. I imagine with practice one can remove the entire

assembly in completely reusable condition - the trick it seems is to

understand that the bezel has vertical sides that must be lifted vertically

after being unclipped from the case - and that the glass has a tendency to

separate from the bezel...

jgreengold -

I tried a flathead screwdriver and cracked the front panel.I learned that prying with a flathead screwdriver will damage it.

Honam1021 -

Zitat von jgreengold:

Not too hard to find - either at music store a sometimes as a jewelry

"charm"... Mine is the latter - very thin, very stiff. It did not damage

the frame of the iPod at all. However - after replacing the new part I noted

a plastic protector sheet on the *underside* of the new screen - upon

removing the new top glass panel using the same guitar pick a second time, I

too damaged the LCD - I also damaged the bezel and O ring. The O ring is

very difficult to get off in a reusable condition. The bezel can come off

clean with patience - which I apparently have little of and hence purchased

a second glass top assembly to go along with the new LCD. I think the key

here is patience and very slow going - I also purchased an iPod opening tool

as another key learning is that while the guitar pick does work - it tends

to get inserted too deep damaging the bezel (separating it from the glass or

breaking it) or damaging internal parts. But the opening tool can sometimes

be not firm enough. I imagine with practice one can remove the entire

assembly in completely reusable condition - the trick it seems is to

understand that the bezel has vertical sides that must be lifted vertically

after being unclipped from the case - and that the glass has a tendency to

separate from the bezel...

Last night I recalled I use to own a metal pic it was a thumb pic for slide guitar. Anyway I decided to use my metal tools I bought from this site which are more rounded edges than the flat bladed screw driver that comes with kits. I made more progress with the metal tools and got what I think is all sides mostly up accept for the home button side which is really fighting me. I can easily tell where a clip is by sliding the tool alongside until I bump up against the side of a clip but I find it very difficult to push straight down to catch the top of the clip which it would seem would push away from the bezel. I am just not sure why this is difficult to do. I have a broken 2nd gen which I use as reference and it looks like the clip would easily push away. At any rate I am in the same predicament as you. I got the 2nd gen together only to find the home button sticks and wifi range is not what it use to be. So I am attempting to take the iPod apart a 2nd time to fix these issues without breaking the touch screen and lcd and so am taking my time. I just don't want to have to replace these brand new parts and have more money in this 8 gig 2nd gen than if I had just bought a brand new one.

barlowdo -

Zitat von jgreengold:

And the service and shipping are excellent - and now I'm gonna buy a new MacBook keyboard from this company and fix my daughters stuck "z" key - I love IFIXIT - would recommend to ALL - products and instructions are EXCELLENT - yes ebay *may* be cheaper but you get what you pay for... HIGHLY RECOMMEND IFIXIT...

Hi jgreengold, Can you help me to check if your iPod touch is like mine on this picture?: http://i44.tinypic.com/2a8ga6p.jpg

My iPod touch bottom glass is a bit raised over the chrome bezel at the right part. Please check it and many thanks for your reply!!

daikyouju -

best I can see my touch glass is level with the frame - whether this picture is pre or post glass replacement, you need to gently, slowly, firmly, press down to try to seat the glass better in the frame/clip. I've see cases where after removint a glass top, the removal of the bexel is not perfect and it may leavel some of the black plastic bexel in the clip which makes it impossible to then copmpletely seat the new top glass/bezel.

jgreengold -

Be sure to pry between the outer case and the rubber gasket and not between the gasket and the glass

mgardner -

isn't this instruction misleading? :

"Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround near the headphone jack."

i agree with mgardner: "Be sure to pry between the outer case and the rubber gasket and not between the gasket and the glass"

vera -

I changed the text to reflect this. It's currently the "unverified" version.

no way - 15/02/15

I tried using the razor blade since the plastic opening tool was useless. I cracked the front panel and scratched the LCD. It had moisture damage and the touchscreen wasn't working. So be very careful when you use the razorblade...

rockon46 -

Schritt 3

Führe das Kunststoff-Öffnungswerkzeug zwischen das Front Panel und dessen Kunststoffeinfassung ein und heble es an mehreren Punkten entlang der linken Kante des iPod Touch an.
Führe das eingesetzte Werkzeug nicht an der Kante des Front Panels entlang. Dadurch könnten das Front Panel und die Gummidichtung beschädigt werden. Am besten arbeitest du dich Punkt für Punkt vor: Heble an einer Stelle an, entferne das Werkzeug und setze es an der nächsten Stelle erneut an.

Careful not to use a (metal) spudger too hard, or it's really easy to bust the LCD screen with the pressure.

iTronics Repair -

That happened to me, stabbed the LCD. Now its soild white with a green line

Joe45110 -

If you insert the tool between the silver case and the plastic surround, you may be able to remove the digitizer and plastic surround as a "single piece".

Tom -

Zitat von Tom:

If you insert the tool between the silver case and the plastic surround, you may be able to remove the digitizer and plastic surround as a "single piece".

That's the way I did it!

James Bond -

I have mine popped up about 1 mm on the top side and on both sides but so far have made no progress on bottom "home button" side. I think I have released the clips on the sides but I can't really see them and can't feel them with the small flat bladed screw driver that comes with replacement kits.

I would love to use the small plastic tool to pry up on the o ring plastic bezel side but I know I would easily cut the o- ring.

Has anyone got anymore suggestions?

barlowdo -

Zitat von barlowdo:

I have mine popped up about 1 mm on the top side and on both sides but so far have made no progress on bottom "home button" side. I think I have released the clips on the sides but I can't really see them and can't feel them with the small flat bladed screw driver that comes with replacement kits.

Update: I have been told that basically all I have accomplished is to raise the glass up above the surface of the metal case and really have not even got to the plastic bezel and disconnecting the clips. So maybe I have got no where so far.

I would love to use the small plastic tool to pry up on the o ring plastic bezel side but I know I would easily cut the o- ring.

Has anyone got anymore suggestions?

barlowdo -

Zitat von barlowdo:

Update: I have been told that basically all I have accomplished is to raise the glass up above the surface of the metal case and really have not even got to the plastic bezel and disconnecting the clips. So maybe I have got no where so far.

The metal clips from Step1 (shown in red) that snap on to the plastic frame are not right at the side of the display glas (under the black rubber) but a little more to the middle!

I thought I opened the metal clips - but what I really did was broke the plastic frame! Now my plastic frame is only on the top and bottom but it still fixes the front panel...

James Bond -

agreed - or a metal quitar pick or ay other metal object. It is relatively easy to insert such an instrument and get under the bezel placing direct pressure on the LCD screed... Slow, shallow, and easy... lifting vertically

jgreengold -

Zitat von barlowdo:

I finally got mine apart. The lower left metal clip was the absolute worst to get loose. Of course none of them were easy or obvious when they would let go freeing up the Bezel. It looks like I can reuse the complete touch screen and home button assembly and the rubber o ring is only slightly blemished around the lower left clip. I had to use the included repair kit flat bladed screw driver to loosen the last clip. All the other clips I was able to remove by using the metal tools sold thru this site. I did not want to use the flat bladed screw driver as it can damage the o ring but the other tools would just not catch the clip enough to lift it away from the bezel and then allowing the bezel to pop up.

So a question, "Why was my Home Button Jamming?" it is a self contained unit. Once out of the pod and in fact even after freeing up most of the bezel it works fine.What could it have been catching on when it is completely assembled? Is there side word pressure or torsional pressure introduced by the bezel snap clips and metal outside frame ?

Thanks to anyone with any suggestions about why the home button sticks in the unit but not when it is out of the unit.

barlowdo -

I had to take mine apart again due to Home Button issues. The touch screen had come loose from the plastic bezel causing the home button to work incorrectly. In the process of trying to clean up old glue I broke the ribbon cable on the brand new only been used for a coupe of months touch screen. I ended up taking the screen all the way off and was left with popping out the plastic bezel without breaking it. I thought it would be difficult but with the touch screen already out of the way I got the plastic bezel off in under 20 minutes.

barlowdo -

The new screen i got its home button does not click idk if its just mine but it messes with me because your used to hearing a click when it registers

mikeseptak -

Schritt 4

Heble die linke Kante weiter an, bis sich die obere und untere Kante aus dem Gehäuse des iPod Touch herausheben.
Sobald sich die obere und untere Kante leicht aus dem iPod Touch herausgehoben haben, stelle mit dem Öffnungswerkzeug sicher, dass die Kunststoffeinfassung von den Klammern im Inneren des iPod Touch gelöst ist.

Step 2

*Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround...

First pic from Step 4 shows what is meant.

But on all the other pics it looks like the opening tool is inserted between the plastic surrounding and the metall body!?

James Bond -

Zitat von James Bond:

Step 2

*Gently insert an iPod opening tool between the glass front panel and its plastic surround...

First pic from Step 4 shows what is meant.

But on all the other pics it looks like the opening tool is inserted between the plastic surrounding and the metall body!?

I checked again and the pics from Step 4+ are correct.

But I would advice the following way:

Zitat von Tom:

If you insert the tool between the silver case and the plastic surround, you may be able to remove the digitizer and plastic surround as a "single piece".

James Bond -

I cracked my front panel at this step while prying. First time I've ever broken anything (or given up in defeat) during a repair. Don't pry too hard! This repair is indeed VERY DIFFICULT.

srohde -

Cracked your front panel? Isn't that what was wrong with it in the first place?

jonathan -

Schritt 5

Setze das Aufhebeln fort und konzentriere dich nun darauf, die Kunststoffeinfassung von den inneren Metallklammern zu lösen.
Heble entlang der oberen Kante des iPod Touch, um das Front Panel weiter vom restlichen Gerät zu lösen.

OK I've repaired many of these now and I think I've found the trick. The trick is to start near the volume buttons and get one or two of the clips released. Then I work my way down the unit, across the bottom, up the side. The top then pretty much comes on it's own. The trick for each clip is, once I can apply upward prying pressure on the plastic frame, I get the spudger between the clip and the frame and the frame will come out of the clip. It's almost never a dramatic pop, it just slides up. I keep a dead, open one on my desk as a reference as to exactly where the clips are.

jonathan -

Schritt 6

Heble das Front Panel entlang der rechten Kante an, wie in den vorherigen Schritten beschrieben.
Arbeite dich schließlich um den gesamten Rand des Front Panels herum, bis es sich leicht von der Rückabdeckung abgehoben hat.
Stelle außerdem sicher, dass die Kunststoffeinfassung von den Klammern in der Rückabdeckung gelöst ist.

This image shows at best an aspirational use for this tool. I have used so many of these and they are mostly useless except for prying up the connectors. As soon as you get about 1mm into the case it shreds and loses the edge, or breaks right below the reinforcing part. Tell me I’m wrong.

Michael Barreto - 23/06/18

Schritt 7

Hebe das Front Panel aus dem Rückgehäuse heraus, achte dabei aber auf das Kabel, das es nahe der oberen linken Ecke noch mit dem iPod Touch verbindet.
Achte unbedingt darauf, das Verbindungskabel des Touchscreens nicht zu zerreißen – sonst wird das Display unbrauchbar.

Schritt 8

Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers (oder eines Öffnungswerkzeugs), um den Steckverbinder des Touchscreen-Kabels vom oberen Logic Board abzulösen.
Jetzt, da das Front Panel entfernt ist, überprüfe es auf Beschädigungen. Falls die Kunststoffeinfassung nicht bündig mit der Vorderseite des Glas-Panels abschließt, löse sie vorsichtig ab und drücke sie wieder an.
Achte darauf, die schwarzen Bereiche auf der Unterseite des Front Panels nicht zu verkratzen – die Kratzer wären nach dem Wiederzusammenbau sichtbar.
Reinige unbedingt sowohl die Display-Oberfläche als auch die Innenseite des Front Panels, da Staub oder Fingerabdrücke nach dem Zusammenbau im Inneren des iPod Touch eingeschlossen wären.

As with the iPhone, the number one reason for removing the digitizer is if it’s smashed. Removing the broken glass from the mid-frame is a delicate procedure and can be very tedious and time consuming. The rubber gasket and home button can be easily damaged if you are overzealous with a heat gun. The mid-frame section is now readily available as an orderable spare part (about £5!) and in my opinion you’ll get a much neater, cleaner repair if you replace this part too. There is however no need to purchase a new home button and switch as this can be easily removed from the old mid-frame and applied to the new one, you will need a hot iron to melt the plastic rivets that hold it in place though.

NoBox -

So what is the orientation for the putting the home button back in. The button has two tabs. Do the tabs face vertical or horizontal? What keeps the button from rotating? Do the tabs fit into slots?

barlowdo -

I used a new frame, removed the home button and circuit and stuck it on the new frame, with metal bracket, but it isn't working.

Ryan -

My iPod touch has the glass screen cover a bit raised over the chrome bezel at the bottom right, as you can see in this:

http://i44.tinypic.com/2a8ga6p.jpg

Is this normal?

daikyouju -

Crazy simple! Wow! Now I pretty much have a new iPod. Thanks iFixit!

patrickjmoe -

I used a jeweler's screwdriver as it was the only tool I had that would fit and work. Following the instructions (Which I had my laptop right next to me) was really simple enough. I have my new digitizer installed, and it's working once again.

Peter25 - 22/10/15

Schritt 9

Setze ein kleines Öffnungswerkzeug mit der Kante schräg nach oben zur Unterseite des Displays zwischen das weiße Hintergrundlicht aus Kunststoff und der Metallabschirmung davor.
Heble die Unterkante des Displays soweit hoch, dass du es mit den Fingern fassen kannst.

Be careful not to put too much pressure on the LCD screen here or it will "bleed" or crack.

iTronics Repair -

Zitat von iTronics Repair:

Be careful not to put too much pressure on the LCD screen here or it will "bleed" or crack.

I haven't had many problems with this part, I've cracked an LCD doing the initial separation of the top frame from the back though.

jonathan -

Schritt 10

Hebe das Display an der Unterkante hoch und kippe es in Richtung Oberkante des Touchscreens.
In den nächsten Schritten müssen Bauteile entfernt werden, die ursprünglich unter dem Display waren. Halte das Display gut fest, damit das Displaykabel nicht zu stark angespannt wird.

Schritt 11

Halte das Display mit einer Hand fest und lasse ein Öffnungswerkzeug an den beiden langen Kanten der unter dem Display angebrachten glänzenden Mylar-Reflexionsschicht entlanglaufen.
Wenn die Schicht frei ist, entferne sie vom iPod.

Step 11. Upon dissection of my iPod touch I note that the mylar reflector is attached firmly to the back of the LCD panel and NOT to the tray as pictured. I assume that the new LCD panel that I ordered from ifixit includes this mylar reflector pre attached to the back of the LCD?

jgreengold -

I have a similar question about the Mylar

1. What is it for? The LCD appears to be a closed unit so I do not think it is for lighting the LCD. Is it a reflector for the Wifi or Blue Tooth?

2. Which way is it suppose to face. Shiny side up or shiny side down? In the pic above it is shiny side up but I see on my replacement LCD it is stuck on shiny side down.

barlowdo -

Zitat von barlowdo:

I have a similar question about the Mylar

1. What is it for? The LCD appears to be a closed unit so I do not think it is for lighting the LCD. Is it a reflector for the Wifi or Blue Tooth?

2. Which way is it suppose to face. Shiny side up or shiny side down? In the pic above it is shiny side up but I see on my replacement LCD it is stuck on shiny side down.

I'm fairly confident that the mylar is there for viewing the display in direct sunlight and for reflecting the backlight/incoming sunlight back out through the LCD. If you hold the display assembly (without mylar) in front of a very intense light source, you'll notice it is a bit transparent and that light transmits through both the LCD and the backlight. Now, if you check out the metal tray that the LCD sits in, you'll notice that it is not a uniform flat surface due to many voids for screw holes, etc. If you were to view the display in direct sunlight without the mylar in place, you'd probably see all the voids in the metal display tray as unwanted "shadows" in your display. I'd install the mylar with the shiny side facing toward the outer glass, as oriented in our repair guide.

Andrew Bookholt -

Schritt 12

Entferne die sieben Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Metallhalterung des Displays befestigt ist.
Die beiden dunkleren Schrauben gehören zu den beiden Schraubenlöchern in der Metallhalterung Nähe an der Unterkante des iPods.

Schritt 13

Lege das Display wieder zurück.
Entferne die letzte Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Displayhalterung noch an der Rückseite befestigt ist.

Schritt 14

Hebe das Display aus der Metallhalterung und kippe es zur Oberkante des iPods hin.
Hebe die Metallhalterung mit einem Öffnungswerkzeug an und kippe sie zur Oberkante des iPods hin.

Schritt 15

Löse die Kupferfolie an der Oberkante des Displays mit einem Öffnungswerkzeug ab.
Lasse die Kupferfolie an der Displayhalterung angeklebt.

Schritt 16

Heble den Displaystecker mit einem Öffnungswerkzeug aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus.

Schritt 17

Hebe die metallene Displayhalterung leicht an (der Akku ist an ihrer Unterseite befestigt) und entferne das Display vom iPod. Achte darauf, dass sich das empfindliche Kabel nicht verfängt.
Das Display-Flachbandkabel verläuft unter der metallenen Displayhalterung.

Works as advertised - I did it!... Replaced LCD and Glass Digitizer in about 45 min (took my time)... Steps are perfectly described - just a reminder to all - remember to take off all protective films used in shipping on both sides of the LCD and both sides of the glass digitizer during installation. You do not want to have to remove the top again (that was a $69.00) mistake on my part...

jgreengold -

What indication did you have that the plastic protectors were still on the new screens? Did parts fit too tightly? Was the screen Dim?

Just curious as this may be some issues others are experiencing.

barlowdo -

During re-assembly, make sure the new battery is positioned low on the back of the metal tray so it does not sit on the edge of the circut board. I dident realize i had done this until I applied a little pressure while seating the LCD screen and I cracked it. Now I get to replace the LCD.

sounnder -

So during re-assembly I transferred the logic board into a second case to avoid the headaches that stripped screws can cause but now every LCD I plug into the unit shows only a white screen and nothing else. I don't remember damaging anything, but did make the top-left screw (next to the digitizer connector) just a wee-bit too tight without realizing that the plastic spacer behind it had broken off.

Again, I don't see any rips in that part of the cable, but I also don't know anywhere else I could have damaged. Does anyone have an idea of why the LB doesn't want to show an image anymore?

Schrodingers License - 21/10/14

Schritt 18

Heble den Akku mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers von der metallenen Displayhalterung ab.
Entferne die Displayhalterung und lege sie zur Seite.
Lege den Akku wieder flach ins Gehäuse zurück.

Schritt 19

Ziehe den kleinen Klebestreifen am Ende des Akkukabels mit einer Pinzette ab.
Nach dem Einbau des neuen Akkus musst du unbedingt die offen liegenden Akkuanschlüsse mit etwas Klebeband vor einem Kurzschluss sichern.

Schritt 20

Klappe den Akku um und lege ihn wie gezeigt in die Gehäuserückseite.

Schritt 21

Beim iPod Touch der 2. Generation ist der Akku mit Lötstellen in Löchern durch das Akku -Flachbandkabel angeschlossen. Diese Lötstellen haben Kontakt zur Oberfläche des Logic Boards. Bei diesem Schritt werden die Lötverbindungen einzeln erhitzt und mit einem Metallspatel vom Logic Board gelöst.
Achte darauf, dass du dabei mit dem Metallspatel keinen Kurzschluss zwischen den Lötstellen herstellst. Dadurch könnte das Logic Board kaputt gehen.
Überhitze weder das Logic Board noch das Kabel. Halte die Lötspitze nur so lange an die Lötstelle, bis das Lötzinn geschmolzen ist. Durch zu viel Hitze kann das Logic Board und das Kabel kaputt gehen.
Beginne an einer Seite des Akku -Flachbandkabels. Hier wurde an der linken Seite begonnen. Erhitze die Lötstelle und heble behutsam unter dem Flachbandkabel, bis es sich von der Platine löst. Wiederhole für die anderen beiden Lötstellen, von links nach rechts (oder von rechts nach links).

Since the battery solder pads are lead-free soldered you need a higher temperature.

Solder with a temperature of about 320 to 340 °C. (I had to go up to 420 °C at my Soldering Station!?)

James Bond -

Avoiding frying the board...

I was noticing that your using a metal spudger to pry up each contact on the solder pad and cautioning not to bridge the contact. I'm thinking there could be a small amount of voltage left in the battery that if you bridged the solder pad with the metal spudger you could fry the board. Why not just cut the batteries ribbon cable before beginning? As long as the sync cable is not plugged in, I don't see where the device could get any charged in case the spudger slipped. (my kind of luck)

Country Computer Service -

A CHISEL TIP ON YOUR SOLDERING IRON IS KEY

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I ripped off pads using the method described here at ifixit. A better solution...

Use an iron with a chisel, not connical, tip. Your iron should be hot enough where you can touch one soldered section at a time -- it only takes about 2 seconds to melt the solder and "lightly" lift up on the cable.

removing the battery...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LrFaXblPn...

be sure to watch the follow up video showing how to attach the battery, you will need a braid, but the tutorial is invaluable.

soldering on the new battery...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWeTbC-Oh...

P.S. If someone has a tutorial on getting solder pads to stick back or using solder to create new pads, I still have my first iPod touch that I goofed up following the directions shown on ifixit. I would love to see how you can repair the pads.

Country Computer Service -

Schritt 22

Nun sollte der Akku vom Logic Board abgetrennt sein.
Hebe den alten Akku aus dem iPod heraus und lege ihn zur See.

Schritt 23

Nimm den Lötkolben und flache damit die Lötstellen auf dem Logic Board ab. Die Bilder zeigen den Zustand vorher und nachher.
Denke dran: die Lötstellen dürfen nicht zu heiß werden.

What if I yanked the battery ribbon and the middle solder pad ripped out of the logic board? =/

Marylyn Nguyen -

Just did the same thing with the right pad. Any suggestions, anyone?

David Jonas -

Schritt 24

Lege den neuen Akku mit der Kabelseite nach unten in die Gehäuserückseite. Klebe das Kabel mit zwei kleinen Stücken von Isolierband gegen die Lötstellen.
Wenn du den Akku mit der Kabelseite nach oben einbaust, wird das Logic Board zerstört.
Befestige einen Streifen des Isolierbands so über das Ende des Akku-Flachbandkabels, dass zwei der Lötstellen abgedeckt sind und der Kontakt zum Logic Board hergestellt ist.
Erhitze die ganz rechts liegende Lötstelle, bis das Lötzinn darunter schmilzt und gib noch etwas Lötzinn dazu, so dass es durch die beiden Löcher im Kabel bis zum Logic Board fließt.
Gib nicht zu viel Lötzinn dran, ein winziger Tropfen genügt.
Wenn die Verbindung hergestellt ist, entferne das Lötzinn und die Lötspitze.

MINISCULE amount of solder...

pollytintop -

Schritt 25

Entferne das Klebeband von den anderen beiden Lötstellen. Wenn du zufrieden damit bist, wie das Kabel auf der Platine liegt, dann mache weiter. Wenn nicht, entlöte die erste Verbindung und versuche es erneut.
Verlöte die anderen beiden Lötstellen auf dem Logic Board, überhitze dabei weder das Kabel noch die Platine.

Schritt 26

Vergiss nicht, die Lötstellen mit Klebeband gegen Kurzschlüsse zu sichern.

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

Tinte & Feder

Walter Galan

702835 Reputation

10 Kommentare

1 thing I misunderstood or otherwise.

When removing the touch glass/front of the iPod you need to be very very very careful to actually get between the plastic/rubber and outer chrome frame, not between the glass and and the plastic/rubber part. Otherwise this will break all of your plastic pieces that are glued to your touch screen.

Another thing is I removed one of the contacts from the circuit board while removing the battery. I thought the ipod was toast. But upon further investigation I realized that that contact went though the board. So I scraped that area down to the other contacts and applied solder to it. Then I was able to reinstall the new battery. PHEW!

Stephan Brunet -

cool. you've got a same problem with me :)

streetpoet11 -

Be careful when you insert your ipod opening tool into your device in step 2 and step 3. The ipod opening tool shouuld be inserted between the metal part and the rubber pad, not between the rubber pad and the edge of touch screen. It will damage your rubber pad surrounding the touch screen. Even though I did some damage to the rubber pad, it looks good when I finish the replacement :)

streetpoet11 -

Did it! Taking apart the case of the Touch (first steps) was the hardest part. Soldering the battery in was a bit tricky. I tinned the connectors prior to soldering and that made it much easier than adding solder later. Reassembly took only about 20 minutes. Disassembly was about 45 minutes. Broke left side of plastic frame around glass front but when reassembled its no problem. You would never know it. I'm really pretty good at electronic assembly and I would agree that its very difficult.

traylor -

Refer to this thread and I would suggest not desoldering the old pads. This happened to me and I was careful and work with electronics everyday.

Soldering point for iPod touch 2nd generation battery

nateokane -

It's so hard to open the front glass without damaging the rubber ring around the plastic frame.....

kasimir -

Unfortunately the plastic tools I bought from here didn't work well and disintegrated into the iPod as I was trying to pry the front panel off. Ended up breaking the display's touch screen connector cable with al the worry about the plastic falling into the ipod. Oh well, this was a last ditch effort anyway, the OS is so old I can't get app updates anymore. I would argue that the tools they sell are not worth it but the repair guides are pretty good. I guess I'll be returning the bits I no longer need.

kareemahhamdan -

This was the most difficult repair I have ever attempted. The plastic tool was not adequate to remove the top glass. I ended up using jewelers screwdrivers. And of course I cracked the glass. The plastic ring around the glass also broke into multiple pieces. It was difficult getting everything aligned when putting it back together. It just did not snap back together. I cracked the glass in another spot. After that I dropped it in the circular file. Sorry Mr Ifixit, I tried.

ssmith1135 - 08/08/14

I have worked on IPhones but I have never worked on IPods. The IPods are a complete pain. I would not recommend doing it unless you are experienced.

Darren - 04/03/16

Hello from 2016. I followed the instructions. Unfortunately, the plastic does disintegrate as you're trying to push off the front bezel. I had to use a tiny jeweler's pry to force it open. I went into the screen glass and not the plastic inadvertently doing some damage. That was the hardest part.

Long story short, I did manage to replace the battery. The iPod touch now boots properly. But the touchscreen is no longer functional.

Meh, desperation for salvage. I tried!

imperialdefiancexx - 07/07/16