Google Pixel 5 Hauptplatine tauschen

What if a sim tray stack in side the phone what can we do ?

If you click on the "iOpener" link, it tells you to heat it up for 30 seconds, and if you're using a microwave with a carousel, make sure it moves freely.

How long do you think it would take with a hair dryer?

Just made this same mistake and the photo is still there... there goes another $180...

"Insert the opening pick into the gap." NOT the gap under the glass, the second gap... If not you will probably break your screen, at least I did. Especially important if your pixel 5 shipped with the screen gap :(

I suggest placing an orientation sticker on the screen so you don't lose track of where that delicate ribbon cable is. I gently bent one, immediately after doing a successful one, resulting in a costly screen replacement. It's important to know that it's incredibly delicate.

I bent one of the picks at the end up 90 degrees with the tweezers to a depth of 3/16" and it worked beautifully. Left it on that side to remember where it was important.

I found it easier to use the spudger here rather than the tweezers (which have sharp ends that could damage something if you happen to slip).

I just fought with this part using the tweezers for several attempts, and then with the spudger it came right out when I applied force towards the center of the left edge.

The curved ends of the blue iFixit Opening Tool helped me reseat the connector when installing the new screen.

Jesus no wonder the Chinese factory workers kill themselves, this thing is brutal

So hard to get this thing reseated to test the screen, even before putting the adheasive round the phone edge to finish the job. What made it particularly hard was that the flex cable on mine seemed very short compared to video's i've seen online.

Where from we can buy the screen. Thanks

the screen does not fit

Luckily the kit came with graphite tape replacement as I accidentally tore through mine when using the sharp tweezers. Here I recommend using the crocodile tweezers as these aren't as sharp and have a bigger surface area to grip.

If you're dumb like me you won't find the crocodile tweezers until you look under the tools tray. I slid my tray out of its box right onto the work surface, so I never noticed the tweezers underneath.

Would have been much more helpful to start off by saying to be careful removing this piece so you can reuse.

Also would have been helpful to say that the kit comes with a new one, so don't worry about saving it.

I found the sharp tweezers accidentally cut through the graphite tape and graphite pad. Use the crododile tweezers instead of the pointed ones to avoid ripping the tape.

To clarify what lupa said: the kit does in fact come with a new graphite pad for the charging plate cover. It took me a while to find it, finally found it underneath my parts tray on the table somehow so it may slide around inside the shipping box.

Using the repair part tray to hold stuff that's needed later worked well for me

Removing the midframe may cause a metal-foam spacer above the light sensor to pop out. After placing in the midframe on re-assembly, you can use the tweezers to squeeze the spacer back in between the midframe and the metal divider near the top of the phone.

There is a picture of this spacer at https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Google+Pixe.... To replace it, first replace the midframe. Then, before screwing the midframe back down, use the tweezers to pinch the space together, compressing the foam in the middle, and slide it into place.

In step 21 (and step 23) the photo showing the spacer shows the cover over the rear camera and apparently the camera itself removed. But this is not required and nor is it instructed in this guide. Confusing for photo to not match what I'm looking at.

I found what helped the best, was after grabbing the tab wrapping it around the tip of the spudger, and rolling slowly away, holding it as close as possible to where the tab was. Before I did that since you're pulling so much at once it easily snapped in half. Luckily I could grab a tiny bit of the strip. After wrapping it around the spudger, it no longer broke. The whole strip came off in one piece. Both pieces are complete horizontal pieces and are along the entire width of the battery, from the side you're pulling to the other side of the battery. There's quite a bit there especially since it stretches during this process. You'll feel it suddenly basically give away. ******

It is very much like the adhesive strips you use to hang items on the wall. When you're removing the hook, you pull at a low angle on that tab and it stretches until it comes off clean. Pull too high and you peel paint. A similar process here, keep it low and roll it slowly on the spudger. It will come away cleanly.

Pull very slowly. Once there is enough out to grip with fingers use your fingers . The tweezers concentrated the load in a small contact area with hard edges. more likely to start a tear. Easier to control pull as well. As the tab comes out keep regripping closer to the battery. That takes the load off the part of tab that has already been stretched thin and weakened.

"Shallow" is not a very helpful descriptor for the angle, nor do any of the pictures demonstrate what they meant.

Instead of pulling straight up, try pulling as parallel to your work surface as possible. It's like removing Command hooks.

Both tabs are hard to find. The first one snapped, this one I made sure to grip as close to the battery after I successfully pulled a small piece and by not pulling up but pulling away from the battery toward the edge of the frame. Because the tape stretches so much, I probably stretched and then grabbed the tape close to the battery 5 or 6 times. It eventually came off without breaking.

Same comment as on step 23: if you get this right, step 27 is free.

This was, by far, the hardest step for me. Pay very much attention to that link "strategically located". It tells you exactly where the toughest adhesive is. I had to use a lot of isopropyl alcohol, a lot of waiting for the adhesive to dissolve, and the thin spudger on only the top and bottom of the battery to pry it out. I did not use the pick.

I don't think it's worth applying adhesive when putting the battery back in.

Absolutely agree. More isopropyl alcohol, a lot of waiting is the key.

I would recommend applying a little adhesive to the new battery. I didn't apply any and my battery rattles a bit. I wish I had put a small amount of tape in just to keep it in place.

Step 28 battery replacement guide. This is the battery replacement guide - for bad batteries. So why does it say "Do not reuse the battery if it has been deformed or damaged, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery." This must have been copied from a different guide, that does not involve battery replacement.

The youtube link is helpful - thank you! Frustrating that the guide doesn't go through the reverse steps more explicitly, especially considering the adhesives need to be relaid.

With these adhesives that come as part of the kit, make sure to keep the blue coverings face-up, then press all over before attempting to pull the blue coverings. This is especially fiddly when laying the final adhesive for the screen. Whilst pulling off the blue covering here, I went especially slowly and followed with the spudger to keep the adhesive down if it was coming up with the blue covering. Note: it's worth placing the adhesive before cliping in the screen connector unless you want to test the screen first (as per the youtube vid)